Tips for Better Baking: Sugar and Other Natural Sweeteners

Sugar, and its cousins, performs many important roles in baking. 

 Sugar:

• provides moisture and tenderness
• increases the shelf-life of finished products
• caramelizes at high temperatures, and
• adds sweetness

All refined sugars (granulated white sugar, confectioner's/icing sugar, brown or golden yellow sugar, and "raw" sugars such as Demerara and turbinado), are equal when it comes to their nutritional value. While in the past brown and raw sugars were considered more "natural" than refined white sugar, now they are made *from* white sugar and simply have a portion of molasses added back in. Refined sugar is 99 percent pure sucrose, a simple carbohydrate.

Refined sugar helps cookies spread during baking, which allows their crisp texture. Because of these critical functions, bakers can't simply replace all the sugar in a recipe with a different sweetener. However, in many recipes, you can decrease the amount of sugar by up to one third without affecting the quality of the product.

Be careful with your sugar: too much can cause a dark crust (one of several possible causes), and too little can cause too light a crust or a tough texture.

But, sometimes you may want to substitute using granulated sugar for another sweetener. Maybe you've run out, maybe there was a great sale on honey and now you need to find a way to use it, and maybe you simply want to try something new.  While not all sweeteners are identical enough to substitute 1:1 (although there are some), don't fret; below are some alternate choices, and how to substitute them into your baking recipes.

And, as always, a fun and super-easy recipe at the end for you to try!

General Rules for Substituting Sweeteners:

• When substituting a liquid sweetener (such as honey, maple syrup, etc.) for a granulated sweetener (i.e. sugar), for every 1 cup granulated to be replaced by a liquid sweetener, subtract 1/4 cup of liquid (water, milk, etc.) from the recipe to re-balance the moisture content.
• The converse being, when substituting a granulated for a liquid sweetener, for every 1 cup of sweetener, add 1/4 cup of liquid from the recipe.

Honey:

Other sugars, such as honey, taste sweeter on the tongue than granulated sugar; in fact, honey is 25%-50% sweeter than refined sugar. You can therefore use less honey to sweeten a batch of muffins than you would sugar. The flavors and colors of honey can vary depending upon the bees' diet -- buckwheat honey, for example, is darker and stronger than clover honey -- and consequently will impart a subtle flavour to your finished product.

Baked goods made with honey are moist and dense, and tend to brown faster than those made with granulated sugar, so if baking with honey, reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

How to substitute honey for sugar in your baking recipes:

Use ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon honey in place of 1 cup sugar (maximum), and reduce the other liquid ingredients by 2 tablespoons. Honey is slightly acidic, so if the recipe includes sour cream or buttermilk, add 1/4 tsp of baking soda to neutralize the acidity.

Maple Syrup:

Maple syrup tastes less sweet than sugar, but its unique flavor is prized in baked goods and desserts. Canada produces 85% of the world's maple syrup supplies, and 90% of that production is located in Quebec.

Maple syrup can be used in most cases as a direct 1:1 recipe substitute for liquid sweeteners with the same density (i.e. golden syrup, glucose, corn syrup, honey, etc.). If using barley malt syrup or other sugar replacement syrups, do some recipe testing first, or find a recipe that has already accounted for its unique tastes and properties.

If baking using maple syrup, reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees Fahrenheit, since maple syrup will tend to caramelize and burn faster than granulated sweeteners.

How to substitute maple syrup for sugar in your baking recipes:

Use ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon maple syrup in place of 1 cup sugar (maximum), and reduce the other liquid ingredients by 2 tablespoons. Buttermilk is slightly acidic, so if the recipe includes sour cream or buttermilk, add 1/4 tsp of baking soda to neutralize the acidity.

Molasses:

Molasses is a byproduct of refined sugar production. It contains small amounts of B vitamins, calcium, and iron. Molasses imparts a dark color and strong flavor to baked foods, but is not as sweet as sugar; replace no more than half the sugar called for in a recipe with molasses. 

The quality of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane, the amount of sugar extracted, and the method of extraction.  There are three major types of molasses sold in North America: unsulphured, sulphured, and blaskstrap molasses. Some minor types are known as fancy and cooking molasses.

Unsulphured molasses is the finest quality. It is made from the juice of sun-ripened sugar cane, and that juice is clarified and concentrated. Molasses from the first boiling is the finest grade because only a small amount of sugar has been removed.

Sulphured molasses is made from green sugar cane that has not matured long enough and is treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process. The second boil molasses takes on a darker color, is less sweet and has a more pronounced flavor.

Blackstrap molasses is from the third boil and is very dark; it imparts a slightly bitter, robust flavour. Blackstrap molasses only has a commercial value in the manufacture of animal feed and other industrial uses. However, some manufacturers have come up with a product in mixing Fancy and Blackstrap molasses together to create what is called Cooking molasses. If you enjoy the deep, bitter taste of blackstrap molasses in your baking, this is probably the one for you. Excellent for ginger snaps!

How to substitute molasses for sugar in your baking recipes:

Use 1 1/3 cups molasses for 1 cup sugar, and reduce the amount of liquid in the recipe by 5 tablespoons. Molasses is also more acidic than sugar; add ½ teaspoon baking soda for each cup of molasses used.

Corn Syrup*/Golden Syrup:

Corn syrup is known as an "invert sugar;" it is useful in cooking and candy-making because, unlike other sugars, it does not crystallize. Corn syrup is less sweet than sugar, and does not add flavor like molasses or honey. 

  

Golden Syrup, on the other hand, is very common in the United Kingdom; it is a refinery syrup made from sugar. and can be used in place of corn syrup. Some cooks believe sugar syrups have a livelier flavor than corn syrups and add more character to dishes such as pecan pie or butter tarts. (*Ed.* Let me say for the record, it is one of the most DELICIOUS sugar syrups I have ever tasted!  It may not be cheap -- it's an import from the UK -- but a little goes a loooong way. I don't use this for my own baking simply because I treasure it like gold, and will only put it on top of homemade pancakes so I can enjoy its flavour to the max!)

How to substitute corn syrup or golden syrup for sugar in your baking recipes:

Use ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon corn syrup/golden syrup in place of 1 cup sugar (maximum), and reduce the other liquid ingredients by 2 tablespoons.

And now for the recipe!

These are the most delicious molasses cookies I have ever made, and the recipe is from the cookbook author and fellow Canadian whom I respect the most, Edna Staebler. I've read all of her fun, chatty little cookbooks documenting the trials and tribulations of creating and curating thousands of recipes from her Mennonite neighbours and friends in Southern Ontario and beyond.  Reading her cookbooks like novels, I firmly believe that her writing is what started me on the path to becoming a professional baker.

In any case, here's the recipe for Edna Staebler's famous Molasses Cookies. These are absolutely delicious, but be sure to make them with unsulphured or fancy molasses; you don't want them bitter.  I've also made these with apple butter (also called apple molasses) and had a near metaphysical experience with how good they were!  Check the link for a reminder on how to make your own apple butter.

Eva's Chewy Molasses Cookies

• 1 cup molasses
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 2 tsp baking soda
• Flour to make a soft dough (1 recommend starting with 1 cup, then going on from there)
• Granulated sugar for dipping

Preheat oven to 350 DegreesF. Mix in the order given. Roll into balls (about 1 tsp in size) and roll in dish of granulated sugar. Place on buttered (or parchment paper-lined) cookie sheets and bake for 10 to 12 minutes (rotate pans once in oven). Let rest on pans for five minutes to firm up, then transfer to cooling rack to cool completely. When cool, place in crock or cookie jar, cover it with a cloth until the cookies are soft and chewy, then cover tightly.

*Note: You may have noticed that I have not made a value statement on the "goodness" or "badness" of corn syrup in your baked goods.  This is so for two reasons: First, I'm a professional baker, and though I try to avoid it when I can, I do occasionally use corn syrup in some of my recipes when necessary, so to lambaste an ingredient or product when I myself use it seems hypocritical. Second, a political rant about how corn syrup and the food manufacturing industry is ruining our health, simply is not within the purview of this particular blog entry.  

If you are truly interested in learning more about our food sources from an industrial food manufacturing perspective, and for more information on corn syrup, high fructose corn syrup and its place in our modern diets, I recommend this and this article for short, thoughtful, well-reasoned discussion on HFCS, and if you're looking for a polemic, a link to two excellent books by Michael Pollan for a blow-the-doors-down expose of what we put into our bodies and the psychology of why we do so.

In Defense of Food, M. Pollan

The Omnivore's Dilemma, M. Pollan

 Information gleaned in part with thanks to:

http://www.canadianliving.com/food/baking_and_desserts/maple_syrup_101_and_sweet_maple_syrup_recipes.php

http://allrecipes.com/howto/baking-with-sugar-and-sugar-substitutes/ 

http://mtnlaurel.com/recipes/767-understanding-molasses.html 

http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/Molassas.htm

Tips for Better Baking: Dairy Products and Other Liquids

In Part 2 of my continuing saga series of tips for better baking, today I'm going to focus on dairy products and other liquids in your baking; how to substitute, when to substitute, and most importantly, when NOT to!  And with this post and forwards, I've decided that, as a "prize" for my readers making their way through this post, I will add a recipe at the end that has to do with the subject at hand.  The best baking recipe I can think of right now that has everything to do with dairy is the deliciously rich Tres Leches ("Three Milks") cake! Have a look at the bottom of this post for the recipe.

Liquids in your baking recipes have a very important purpose; they are considered the "moisteners", obviously, but they also have a host of other jobs to do: water and milk enhance flour's gluten development and other starches' gelatinization (such as cornstarch, tapioca, etc.), and they help set a baked good's structure. Milk is used for flavoring, and the sugars in the milk (the lactose) sweeten and help with fermentation. 

But, like all good things, too much liquid in your recipe is not good for you either; it can cause a baked good to collapse as it cannot support its own weight, or the batter will be too thin, meaning there is not enough leavening in the product to make it light and airy, leaving the final baked good too heavy. The perfect balance of liquid offers both structural support and moistness, which our taste buds perceive as tenderness.

 

Milk:

As with most other baking ingredients, milk and other liquid dairy and non-dairy products should be at room temperature when added to a recipe. 20-30 minutes on the counter prior to adding it to your recipe should be sufficient time to bring it up to temperature.

Whole milk (known as homogenized or "homo" milk in Canada) is higher in total fat (3-4%) than low-fat or skim milk (0-2%). If a baking recipe calls for whole milk, you can probably substitute a low-fat milk variety like skim, 1% or 2% fat; baked items such as cakes and cookies can usually tolerate the use of low-fat milk. However, be cautious about substituting skim milk in pudding, custard and sauce recipes. These recipes rely on the dairy fat for added texture and flavor. 

When making a chocolate baked good, try substituting chocolate milk for the milk in the recipe. Mmmm-mmm, good!

Substitutions for cream (1 cup):

• 3 tablespoons butter plus 7/8 cups 2% milk 
• 1/3 cup butter plus 3/4 cup 2% milk

NOTE: Neither of these replace whipping cream.

Substitutions for buttermilk (1 cup):

• 1 tablespoon vinegar plus enough milk to equal 1 cup 
• 2/3 cup plain yogurt plus 1/3 cup milk 

Substitutions for whole milk(1 cup):

• 1/2 cup evaporated milk plus 1/2 cup water 
• 1 cup water plus 1/3 cup nonfat evaporated dry milk powder 
• 1 cup skim milk plus 2 teaspoons melted butter 

Plain yogurt can be substituted 1:1 for sour cream.

 

Dairy Substitutes:

Milk is one of the easiest ingredients to substitute in baking. Non-dairy milks and water are suitable replacements with only subtle effects on taste and texture. Some ingredients may affect the coloration of the finished product. Soy will often cause a darker color or browning effect. Another consideration is that not all liquid replacements are as thick as milk; therefore, the amount used may need to be reduced from the amount called for in the recipe.

Cow's milk can be substituted 1:1 for soy milk, rice milk, or other nut milk (such as almond); keep in mind, though, that, depending on the brand, rice milk can be thinner than cow’s milk and you may need to reduce the amount used in the recipe. For baking, you can add 2 or 3 extra tablespoons of cooking oil to help offset a watery consistency.

Note: Milk substitutes may still have dairy ingredients in the product. Many brands claim to be dairy-free, but in truth they only eliminate lactose, a milk sugar. Dairy protein (casein) is commonly included in both soy and rice milks. Also, many brands of rice milk are not gluten-free due to their manufacturing process. Always confirm the status of rice or soy milks if you are on a gluten-free and/or dairy-free diet.

For a non-dairy replacement for cream in a baking recipe, you can refrigerate a tin of high-fat coconut milk overnight, and carefully open (without shaking the tin) to strain off the rich coconut milkfat that rises to the top.

Fruit juice can be used as a replacement, but can impart sweetness. Juice is also acidic and is best served in recipes that include baking soda. The amount used will depend on the thickness of the juice.

Water is commonly substituted for milk in recipes. Add water last to the recipe, stirring in small amounts until the proper consistency is achieved.The final product may not taste as rich, however.

•  Water: Approximately 3/4 cup water = 1 cup cow’s milk

Milk: As with the other cake ingredients, milk, half and half, or heavy cream used in the recipe should also be room temperature. Remove the milk for your recipe from the refrigerator and let it sit on your counter 20 to 30 minutes. - See more at: http://thebakingpan.com/cake-hints-and-tips/#sthash.PC8OTF97.dpuf

Milk: As with the other cake ingredients, milk, half and half, or heavy cream used in the recipe should also be room temperature. Remove the milk for your recipe from the refrigerator and let it sit on your counter 20 to 30 minutes. - See more at: http://thebakingpan.com/cake-hints-and-tips/#sthash.PC8OTF97.dpuf

 

Other Liquids:

Alcohols can make some really excellent baked goods!  It goes without saying that beer makes some pretty amazing bread, but try substituting champagne for apple or white grape juice in a baked good; I made a Champagne mousse in Pastry School that was gorgeous!  Or, here is a marvelous compendium of 100 recipes using leftover red wine, several of which are baking recipes, by recipegirl.com!  Fabulous.

However, you may want to go the other direction, and substitute a non-alcoholic liquid in a recipe. When making substitutions for alcohols, it is important to keep the volume of liquid in the recipe the same as originally called for.

When using flavored liqueurs, bakers extracts (also called emulsions) can be substituted if you make up the balance of the liquid with water. For example, you could use a ratio of 1 part extract to 3 parts water for the same flavour profile without the added alcohol.

Some basic liquor substitutions:

• Rum extract for rum
• Orange extract for Grand Marnier
• Lemon extract for limoncello
• Cherry extract for kirsch
• Hazelnut extract for Frangelico
• Almond extract for DiSaronno
• Cinnamon extract for Goldschlager
• Peppermint extract for peppermint schnapps
• Anise or licorice extract for Ouzo

Note: do not confuse extracts with oils (lemon oil, orange oil, etc) or candy flavouring; oils are far weaker than extracts, and candy flavourings are far stronger than extracts.

Strong brewed coffee can easily be substituted with instant; just add 1 tsp instant coffee granules per 1/2 cup of hot water needed. If you have access to instant espresso powder, this is also an excellent substitute, and really brings out the flavour of chocolate!

Lastly, I know I've said this before, but it bears repeating: make sure all of your liquids are room temperature when you add them to your baking recipe. If they are too cold, the batter may "seize", leading to an overly stiff product that will not bake up properly. An overly warm liquid (such as insufficiently cooled coffee), will melt some of the other heat-sensitive ingredients in your recipe, as well as prematurely activate the gluten and gelatinize the starches in flours and starches, which will also lead to a sub-optimal product.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Now, as promised here is the recipe for the Tres Leches Cake; I made this recipe for a cake commission some time ago...one of my first commissions, in fact!  I was absolutely astonished that the cake I had made could hold so much liquid as I was pouring, and pouring, and POURING the milk mixture overtop of it!  Be reassured, however, the cake will hold all this liquid, and be the better for it. This cake recipe is very popular in South America.

Très Leches Cake

PREP Time: 10 mins

BAKE Time: 30 mins

CHILL Time: 4 hours

Cake:

½ cup unsalted butter

1 cup sugar

5 large eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

1½ cups all-purpose flour

1½ tsp baking powder

1 cup 2% or whole milk

1 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (12 ounce) can evaporated milk

Topping:

1½ cups whipping cream

¼ cup icing sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

Fresh sliced strawberries, maraschino cherries, chocolate curls, or cinnamon sugar to decorate (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°. Grease and flour a 13”x9” baking dish.

Beat butter and sugar at medium speed with an electric mixer until fluffy; mix in eggs and vanilla. Combine flour and baking powder; add gradually to butter mixture, stirring to blend. Pour batter into prepared dish, and bake at 350° for 30 minutes or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Pierce cake with a fork all over when finished.

Either remove cake from pan and place on final serving plate (preferably rimmed), or leave in pan for presentation. Combine the 3 milks, and pour on top of the cake; cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.

Beat whipping cream, icing sugar, and vanilla at medium-high speed with an electric mixer until thick; spread over cake, decorate as desired, and serve.

With thanks to:
http://www.dianasdesserts.com
http://food.unl.edu/web/fnh/ingredient-substitutions 
http://baking911.com/quick-guide/how-baking-works